Sewing leather
and fur do not differ too much from sewing other types of material.
The key to sewing leather is to always try your stitch on a piece
of scrap before you start the actually sewing and then make sure you
have your pattern accurate for the piece you will be sewing. The reason
this is so crucial is that once you have stitched leather, if you
make a mistake and need to undo the stitch, the leather will be weakened
and you will be left with holes.
Stitching
Another tip is that depending on the thickness of the leather or fur,
you want to lengthen your stitch to three or more. Obviously, the
thicker the seam will be, the longer you need to make the length of
the stitch. If you make your stitch too small, what happens is that
the leather is punctured too close together, causing tears.
Another important tip is that you should always leave long threads
at both the start and end of the seams so you can tie them off by
hand. The only time you would use a backstitch is when the seam will
be encased or crossed over by another seam. You can keep the seams
together simply by placing a very small, strong in the seam allowance
when sewing leather.
Patterns
As you work with patterns, you will discover that leather garments
have the same interfacing in the same locations just as you would
find with other types of material. If you need to fuse your leather,
an excellent product on the market called Leather Fuse is made specifically
for leather. With this solution, the leather is fused quicker and
at lower temperature settings, as not to damage the leather.
Now keep in mind that if you need to press an area of a pattern down,
you can by using a small amount of steam. Since leather goes through
a quality tanning process, there is no need to worry about shrinkage.
Just be sure you place a brown paper press cloth in between the iron
and the leather and never leave the iron sitting on the leather for
very long.
Rough Spots
If you are sewing leather with thick spots, you can use a rubber mallet
to pound them out. However, you will need to protect the leather by
covering it with paper or cloth to ensure you do not scratch or dent
the leather.
If you are sewing leather that is more casual, you can use lapped
seams. Simply topstitch to hold the seam allowance and then with a
single-hole throat plate, you can stitch, which will keep the stitching
nice and straight.
As you are sewing leather garments, you might experience skipped stitches.
If this happens, do not stop stitching, just keep going. What you
want to do is when you have finished all the machine stitching, go
back, and stitch over those skipped areas by hand. Start by anchoring
the needle between the layers of the garment and
then bring it up through the first skipped hole.
Now, pass the needle over the thread of the floating thread that was
skipped and then pull the needle back through the hole. Be sure you
pull the stitch tight and do this for each skipped stitch. This way,
you keep the integrity of the machine stitching in tact while providing
reinforcement.
Materials
If you are interested in sewing leather clothing, crafts, or upholstery,
you will need specific items that include the following:
Presser foot
Leather needle for the machine and Glover's needle for hand stitching
Thread that is 100% polyester - do not use cotton or cotton blend
because the chemicals in the leather from the tanning will cause the
thread to rot
Rubber cement or two-sided adhesive tape
Rotary cutter to cut clean edges
Wax chalk to use for marking
Cold tape
Rubber mallet
Patterns
When sewing leather, you do not need a special pattern. You can simply
choose a fabric pattern that you like and use leather instead of other
fabric. Just be sure you choose the pattern carefully since some patterns
will have multiple seams that do not work well when sewing leather.
Additionally, if the pattern has large pieces, chances are you will
have to do some custom work in that the leather pieces will probably
not be as large as the pattern. For example, if you were sewing leather
pants, you would have to piece two hides of leather to create one
pant leg. Now this can be done but just keep in mind that depending
on the pattern you choose, you might need to get creative when sewing
leather.
Always keep in mind that when sewing leather, muslin is crucial. The
reason is that once leather has been stitched, letting out seams or
making alterations is very difficult since the original needle hole
will still be visible. By using muslin, once the alterations are complete,
you can take it apart and then create a new pattern using a heavy
type paper.
Sewing leather is not really that difficult but most people feel a
little uncomfortable with it. If you want to create something using
leather, you can always start with a small project first. Rather than
starting out with a pair of pants or shirt, choose a simpler pattern
such as a sleeveless vest. Once you have accomplished that, you will
feel more confident and be ready to try making something a little
more involved.
Skins
When sewing leather, choosing the right skin is very important. Be
sure the leather is soft and supple. Each type of skin will vary somewhat
as you will see below.
Cowhide
Since this type of hide is typically large, you will find that they
are most often divided in two pieces called Sides. Because the hides
are so large, they make a great choice for many patterns. The only
drawback is that cowhide is tough by nature and therefore best suited
for outerwear.
Pigskin
Pigskin is another type of leather that is typically found in larger
pieces. With the leather being a good medium weight, this makes a
great choice for many pattern types.
Lambskin
For lambskin, the leather is smaller and therefore is best used with
smaller patterns. Because the leather is very soft and lightweight,
this makes a great choice for skirts, jackets, and tops. The only
thing you need to remember is that because lambskin is lightweight
and thinner, it can tear and rip so use care when using it for sewing.
You will find that skins sold for sewing are pre-measured and sold
by the square foot. For price, it will depend on the type of skin
you choose as well as the tanning process used. Typically, a supplier
will lay out a number of skins, sorting by color, texture, and size.
If you visit a supplier in person, you will be able to choose leather
skins that match best.
Additionally, when buying in person, you have the opportunity to look
for damage caused by thin spots, tears, holds, folds, flaws, and so
on. If you do buy from an online supplier, chances are you will receive
quality leather. However, just to be on the safe side, it would be
best to always buy from a supplier that offers a refund on uncut skin
should you find it does not match or is damaged.
If you are not sure how much leather to buy, you can use the following
formula to convert the traditional 45-inch fabric measurement:
Take the yardage required for the pattern and multiply it by 1.25
Then, add 15% for waste. If you are not sure you are buying enough,
ask the supplier what their rule of thumb is.
Cutting / Marking
The way leather works is that the grain runs along the backbone of
a skin. If you buy whole skins, you will find this grain running in
the center of the skin. If buying a side piece of leather, then the
grain would be located on the cut edge.
It is important to remember that the lengthwise grain of leather is
not the same as with other fabric. For one, it will not stretch as
much but it will be stronger. Therefore, be sure you always place
the center fronts and backs along the grain. When you lay out your
pattern, be sure you work with the finished side of the skin, facing
up.
By using masking tape as a way of attaching the pattern pieces, you
avoid poking unnecessary holes in the skin. Then with a rotary cutter,
you will get a nice, clean edge. Just be sure you do not leave the
masking tape on the skin for very long, as it can take off some of
the finish.
For the markings, they can be transferred easily. For instance, for
the notches and darts, clip very tiny pieces into the seam allowance.
Then to mark the hem allowances, darts, pockets, buttonholes, and
so on, simply use wax chalk, testing it first on a piece of scrap.
The dart points should be marked on the wrong side of the skin, piercing
the pattern with a pin. Be careful that the pin does not go through
the leather skin or you will have an unwanted hole. Now, gently lift
up the pattern, make your marks with the chalk, and then draw the
dart line for stitching with chalk and a ruler.
Notions
If you are working with a soft type of leather, you can use an invisible
zipper to create a clean look. Just be sure you use a narrow piece
of fusible interfacing as a way of securing the zipper. Rather than
baste seams closed, you can tape them together and then just baste
the zipper using rubber cement before you do the top stitching.
Another great idea for sewing leather is to use covered buttons. Often,
by using an exposed button, the leather can be scratched. Choose a
metal toothed button so that as you stretch it over the skin, it will
grip and hold. Then to sew the buttons on, you can use dental floss,
which will stop the button's metal shank from cutting through regular
thread.
Once you have completed your first sewing leather project, you'll
be amazed at how fun and easy it is. The key to success is working
with the right type of skin, using the right type of tools, and taking
your time so holes and tears are avoided.
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